When we last left our heroine, there was a reclaimed coffee jar full of safety pins under one of her straps:
We wanted to show our client how much longer the straps were than expected. These were the straps from the fitted toile, marked to the length that was sent back to us. And here was the conundrum. Yes, it’s totally a word.
[Steps aside for a moment]
When we create a gown, we follow the actual toile as closely as possible, along with the measurements we’re given, to create a 3D version of our client. And if all the stars align, everything fits together within a few inches give or take. But sometimes it doesn’t. When that happens, we stop what we’re doing and ask for clarification; we want the dress to fit as perfectly as perfectly possible.
So, these straps were a lot longer than the other measurements/toile seemed to suggest. That’s not a huge problem; straps can be adjusted easily enough. But what if the issue wasn’t the straps but the bodice itself? We’d want to make sure that we had the measurements correct. We asked for a re-measurement session to be sure of the numbers, and prepared to wait.
Now, waiting does not = sitting around. There was plenty other stuff to work on.
For starters, we could create the contrasting bodice band. Here’s the pattern piece, laid out on the fabric. We cut two pieces:
Why is the pattern piece laid out diagonally and not horizontally, which would use lots less fabric? Because pattern pieces need to be placed in correct relation to the weave of the fabric, otherwise known as the ‘grain’. Otherwise, the pieces won’t fold right or drape or behave themselves. So yeah, the bodice top takes up more usable fabric than one would expect.
Here are the pieces pinned together:
And here is how the bodice top looks when it’s sewn and pressed and ready to be attached:
But now you might be wondering about all that scrap fabric on either side that was left over from cutting out the pieces. Wonder no longer; we don’t waste anything. The scrap fabric is used for creating the pretty roses.
Here are some leaf bits, in their pre-rose state:
The rose pieces were prepped and put aside to be hand-sewn as time allowed. More on that later.
What else could we make in the meantime? The lacing panel. And that deserves its own post.
See you soon! ~ Lori